Leafer

A 3D printed RC snowmobile styled after machines from the 70s

Currently a work in progress and there is a very good chance files and BOM will change

Download all files

Join the discord group https://discord.gg/C744rbBbvj

BOM

Electronics have been tested to work in this config unless noted

Note: some of these are affiliate links

• Motor (with matching esc)
  • NEW!!!! my new favourite combo with a D3536 750kv outrunner and Hobbywing 16BL30 ESC. Low CG, plenty of power, and no belt or aluminum/printed driveshaft needed. Works with either bulkhead type
    • ESC Hobbywing 16BL30 v2
    • D3536 750kv outrunner (will need flat ground on to output shaft)
  • 380 size brushless motor, 19mm hole spacing (max 28mm diameter) ~3100kv
    • Expensive, nicer option Rocket Supersonic sensored 380 3300kv
    • Cheap option with servo Rocket 2845 3100kv
  • 540/36xx size motors should work with a different frame (included)
• 2-3s LiPo 850-2200mah
  • 2200mah 2s gives around 25-30 minute run time in low snow/icy conditions with a 3300kv sensored 380 motor
    • I run CNHL Black Series 1300-1500mah 2-3s batteries that fit well in the front. There is also room under the seat but I don't recommend putting the battery there
• Battery strap
• 6+ MR83 3x8x3 bearings
  • 4 for rear idlers, 2 for front idler wheels and some for a belt tensioner if needed
• 8x MR128 8x12x3.5 Bearings
  • 4x for the spindles, 2x for the driveshaft, 2x for the upper idler wheels
• 1/10 scale servo or 9g/TR4 servo
• 70-80mm shock
  • I use 70mm but if you want it to sit a littler higher 80mm works
• 48mm Mini E-Revo shocks for skis (Optional)
  • GPM ones work well GPM shock
• 150g 85a TPU for track and hood hinge/straps
  • 95a may work but the track will not be nearly as flexible and take more power to turn
• 1kg rigid filament
  • PLA+/Tough PLA works well but most components it does not matter
• M2 Screws
  • 6-8mm long for the spindle covers and front bumper
• M2.5 Screws (if using ski shocks)
  • 2 10mm, 2 16mm
• M3 screws
  • Mostly 6mm, 8mm, 12mm, 16mm, and 25mm
• M3 Threaded rod
  • skid rear axle (75mm) and steering links (depends on servo setup)
• Motor drive pulley (not needed for direct drive setup)
  • 12t 2GT 3.175mm bore (or 5mm bore with shaft adapter) pulley for 380 motor
  • 16-20t 2GT 4-5mm bore pulley for 36XX
• Driven pulley (printable options will be included) (not needed for direct drive setup)
  • 58-64t for 380
  • 56-60t for 36XX
• 188mm long 6mm wide 2GT Closed loop belt (not needed for direct drive setup)
• short piece of gt2 belt for front limiter strap
• 8mm aluminum/steel driveshaft if not using the printed one
  • slightly shorter overall but the bolt spacing is the same as skeeride 2 shaft which will also fit (not needed for direct drive setup)
• Any 2+ channel radio system should work, I recommend one with a gyro
  • I am using the Turbo Racing P52 transmitter with RX49 receiver since these recievers will pair with the OEM RTR Vanquish crawler radios
• Lights (optional)
  • https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_c3cogIUp these injora 17mm lights, take them out of the housing. headlight uses a pair, and the tail light plus dash light (wip) will each use a single pcb of the pair. So in total 2 sets of lights for the whole sled

Printing

• Print the track, hood straps, hood hinges, snow flap, and spindle covers in TPU
• The spindles need to have really good layer adhesion so make sure to use a strong material and maybe bump up the hotend temp a bit
• Material choice for most other parts does not matter but the springs I would suggest PC-ABS or PLA+
• Some parts will need supports
  • the tunnel has integrated supports included

Note: The rear axle cross shaft and front cross brace look the same, but the rear one has a larger hole so you can slide a threaded rod through, where as the front is smaller so you can thread a bolt into it

The build

Skid

Glue the gt2 belt limiter strap into the tensioner, and wrap the other end around the front skid brace and lock it down with a zip tie

Steering

There are 2 servo size options, both will work with option A

Option A

Printed steering link between each spindle, with a link made with m3 rod and ends from the servo horn to the printed link

Option B

Only works with the smaller 9g/TR4 servo

Link between spindles with m3 rod and link from the servo to the right spindle

Bellypan

The little tabs on the bellypan are to help align the hood, which requires carefully heating and bending the tabs upward so they stick out from the edges

PXL_20250204_040755489.1.mp4

Direct drive setup

Ski

From top to bottom:

• saddle_upper or saddle_upper_spread
• helper_spring
• spring
• saddle_lower
• bump_stop