Feature/migrate images off of imgur

vitepress/docs/src/pages/firmware_guide/upload_and_update_firmware.md

@@ -35,7 +35,7 @@ Once completed, you should be all set to proceed.
 
 > This builds the firmware, but does not send it to the ESP yet.
 
-![img](https://i.imgur.com/EmSkhFp.png)
+![img](../imgs/vsc-legacy/EmSkhFp.png)
 
 ## 3. Upload your firmware
 
@@ -44,7 +44,7 @@ Once completed, you should be all set to proceed.
 - Once the firmware has been built, press the upload button to upload the firmware.
 
   This sends the firmware to the ESP.
-  ![img](https://i.imgur.com/lI3PFVC.png)
+  ![img](../imgs/vsc-legacy/lI3PFVC.png)
 
 <Alerts :options="alerts.upload_firmware_one">
     <template v-slot:content>
@@ -56,7 +56,7 @@ Once completed, you should be all set to proceed.
 
 - If the upload is successful, you should get an output that looks like this:
 
-  ![img](https://i.imgur.com/SDQcCr1.png)
+  ![img](../imgs/vsc-legacy/SDQcCr1.png)
 
 Congratulations! You have now successfully uploaded the firmware to your EyeTrackVR Tracker!
 
@@ -163,7 +163,7 @@ This will open a list of all available environments, select the one that matches
 
 4. Restart the ESPs, they **_must_** be power cycled
 5. Press the upload button to upload the firmware.<br>  
-   ![img](https://i.imgur.com/lI3PFVC.png)
+   ![img](../imgs/vsc-legacy/lI3PFVC.png)
 6. Do not touch esps or move them during OTA upload
 7. Wait around 1 minute.
 8. Repeat for as many trackers as you need.

vitepress/docs/src/pages/headset_guides/valve_index.md

@@ -17,8 +17,8 @@ Please note due to the LED positioning, these will **require you to use the incl
 [V4 LED Kit Assembly](https://docs.eyetrackvr.dev/how_to_build/led_setup)
 
 ## MUTEtheCyberwolf's DEV Frunk Mod:
-![DevFrunk1](https://i.imgur.com/KQDFg1J.jpeg)
-![HMD](https://i.imgur.com/4n6f4U3.png)
+![DevFrunk1](../imgs/headset_guides/KQDFg1J.jpeg)
+![HMD](../imgs/headset_guides/4n6f4U3.png)
 
 #### Mod Details
 The DEV Frunk is a popular choice for ETVR on the Index. Replacing the original index frunk entirely, it has multiple mounting points for both the XIAO's, a Vive Facial Tracker (or [project babble!](https://babble.diy/)), and cutouts for 30x30x7mm fans.  
@@ -45,9 +45,9 @@ You will need to print:
 - 1x Eyetrack VR Prototype XIAO Mount.stl
 - 1x FacialTrackerBeerHingeVIDEVFrunk1.stl
 - 1x FacialTrackerBridgeVIDEVFrunk1.stl
-  - Alternatively, if you have the [LDLRUI USB HUB](https://www.amazon.com/LDLrui-4-Port-Splitter-Multiport-Adapter/dp/B0BLHCD7FS), [this modified version](https://github.com/Frosty704/mods-eyetrackvr/blob/main/ldlrui%20case%20and%20bridge%20merged-FacialTrackerBridgeVIDEVFrunk1.stl) of the DEV Frunk Bridge can snap fit the hub onto the bridge. [Example](https://i.imgur.com/kRvx56r.jpeg)
+  - Alternatively, if you have the [LDLRUI USB HUB](https://www.amazon.com/LDLrui-4-Port-Splitter-Multiport-Adapter/dp/B0BLHCD7FS), [this modified version](https://github.com/Frosty704/mods-eyetrackvr/blob/main/ldlrui%20case%20and%20bridge%20merged-FacialTrackerBridgeVIDEVFrunk1.stl) of the DEV Frunk Bridge can snap fit the hub onto the bridge. [Example](../imgs/headset_guides/kRvx56r.jpeg)
 - 1x ValveIndexDEVFrunk1.stl
-  - Alternatively, if you are interested in routing the ribbon cables internally, [this modified DEV Frunk](https://github.com/Frosty704/mods-eyetrackvr/blob/main/ValveIndexDEVFrunk1_MODIFIED.stl) has holes at the top for sliding through ribbon cables and power cables. [Example](https://i.imgur.com/RcYQ8xd.png)
+  - Alternatively, if you are interested in routing the ribbon cables internally, [this modified DEV Frunk](https://github.com/Frosty704/mods-eyetrackvr/blob/main/ValveIndexDEVFrunk1_MODIFIED.stl) has holes at the top for sliding through ribbon cables and power cables. [Example](../imgs/headset_guides/RcYQ8xd.png)
 
 ![Drawing1](https://github.com/MUTEtheCyberwolf/VALVE-INDEX-DEV-Frunk-1.0/assets/98415183/3b2b4fc2-a0ce-4641-8d0f-8fcac9271e34)
 
@@ -57,22 +57,22 @@ You will need to print:
 - When heating up the inserts, **let the weight of the soldering iron do the work**, they make take a few seconds to start moving on their own.
    -  **Do not push down**, and remove the iron when they are level with the print. It doesn't need to be perfect, so take your time!
 
-![FRUNK](https://i.imgur.com/5xzpTqa.png)
+![FRUNK](../imgs/headset_guides/5xzpTqa.png)
 
 Bottom picture courtesy of amoistman
 
 2. Next, place a heat insert into the bigger hole of the facial tracker bridge
 
-![BRIDGE](https://i.imgur.com/vNPx656.png)
+![BRIDGE](../imgs/headset_guides/vNPx656.png)
 
 3. Lastly, place another heat insert into the thick side of the beer hinge
 
 
-![HINGE](https://i.imgur.com/R3Uwllz.png)
+![HINGE](../imgs/headset_guides/R3Uwllz.png)
 
 4. Your finished heat inserts should look like this
 
-![INSERTSEXAMPLE](https://i.imgur.com/2z0TD3L.jpeg)
+![INSERTSEXAMPLE](../imgs/headset_guides/2z0TD3L.jpeg)
 
 Picture courtesy of amoistman
 
@@ -84,38 +84,38 @@ We can move onto screwing in the XIAO Mount and Facial tracker bridge onto the f
   - If you have trouble screwing them in, try screwing them equally to distribute the pressure more evenly.
     - Screw one a little, screw the opposite the same amount, repeat.
 
-![M4SCREWGUIDE](https://i.imgur.com/hCi744w.png)
+![M4SCREWGUIDE](../imgs/headset_guides/hCi744w.png)
 
 Two last things to screw in will be the beer hinge and vive facial tracker or babble case if you have it
 
 1. Place the smaller hole of the beer hinge inbetween the bridge's screw holes.
    - Screwing in **opposite** of where the heat insert is. You should be screwing ***into*** the heat insert
 
 
-![M4SCREWGUIDE2](https://i.imgur.com/zJeadXI.png)
+![M4SCREWGUIDE2](../imgs/headset_guides/zJeadXI.png)
 
 2. For the last screw, repeat the same steps, but line up your face tracker or babble case. Screw from the same direction, into the heat insert of the beer hinge.
 Use either an M4x10 or an M4x30. I find the M4x10 sometimes loses tension, while the M4x30 doesnt. 
 
 3. Your final result should look like this
-![FINAL](https://i.imgur.com/1h7ex2y.jpg)
+![FINAL](../imgs/headset_guides/1h7ex2y.jpg)
 
 
 #### 3. Mounting components
 
 1. You can now push the XIAO's into the mount, making sure they are down snug, if you haven't already.
 
-![XIAO](https://i.imgur.com/pXb2UVZ.png)
+![XIAO](../imgs/headset_guides/pXb2UVZ.png)
 
 
 2. Place your V4 LED kit PCB into the middle of the XIAO Retention Clip. Ensure the hole in the PCB alligns with the small bump on the retention clip.
 You will have to slide it in and push it under the overhangs until they snap over the PCB.
 
-![XIAO-V4](https://i.imgur.com/MnaWjHw.png)
+![XIAO-V4](../imgs/headset_guides/MnaWjHw.png)
 
 3. Route your V4 LED connectors through the coverplate holes prior to putting it on
 
-![V4POWER](https://i.imgur.com/rDOzTz8.png)
+![V4POWER](../imgs/headset_guides/rDOzTz8.png)
 
 4. Place the coverplate ontop of the LED PCB until the front of it snaps down and locks it over the retention clip.
 
@@ -131,15 +131,15 @@ You must have a T5 Torx screwdriver to remove the original index frunk screws, w
 
 Picture courtesy of iFixit
 
-![T5SCREWS](https://i.imgur.com/AbnMtn4.jpeg)
+![T5SCREWS](../imgs/headset_guides/AbnMtn4.jpeg)
 
 1. If you do not have fans, and are mounting a USB Hub infront, I recommend now plugging in the USB hub through the fan holes, as you won't be able to after dev frunk is screwed on.
 
 Alternatively, you can use the USB C port below the middle bottom screw, and passthrough a hub with a [FEMALE USB-C/A to MALE USB A](https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256802596853859.html) cable
 
 2. Once the frunk is removed, line up your DEV Frunk and screw it back in the same way. Support it in a way you can screw in without it falling.
 
-![T5SCREWS2](https://i.imgur.com/LRN45aM.png)
+![T5SCREWS2](../imgs/headset_guides/LRN45aM.png)
 
 
 

vitepress/docs/src/pages/how_to_build/led_setup.md

@@ -9,37 +9,37 @@ There are 3 main components of an IR LED kit; the mainboard, LEDs and wires.
 
 ### Mainboard
 Below is the V4 mini mainboard with major features labled.
-![V4mini](https://i.imgur.com/SpwYUgw.jpeg)  
-![V4mini_back](https://i.imgur.com/ZsTnjem.jpeg)
+![V4mini](../imgs/leds/SpwYUgw.jpeg)  
+![V4mini_back](../imgs/leds/ZsTnjem.jpeg)
 
 
 ### LEDs
 There are 2 different types of LED boards. 
 The one you should have more of are the "N" LEDs. N stands for Normal, these make up 3 of the leds per eye.
-![nLED](https://i.imgur.com/f0onbjb.jpeg)  
-![NLEDback](https://i.imgur.com/pM31O08.jpeg)
+![nLED](../imgs/leds/f0onbjb.jpeg)  
+![NLEDback](../imgs/leds/pM31O08.jpeg)
 
 
 The second type is the "E" LEDs. E stands for End as these are put at the end of the LED strand.
 
-![eLED](https://i.imgur.com/LaJmm4Z.jpeg)  
-![eLEDback](https://i.imgur.com/UkLVPci.jpeg)
+![eLED](../imgs/leds/LaJmm4Z.jpeg)  
+![eLEDback](../imgs/leds/UkLVPci.jpeg)
 
 In future orders the "E" LEDs will be purple for easier distinction.
-![eLEDpurple](https://i.imgur.com/a1j6zHi.jpeg)
+![eLEDpurple](../imgs/leds/a1j6zHi.jpeg)
 
 ### Wires
 The included wires are a bit special, they have 3 pins on the connectors but only 2 wires are attached.
-![v4wire](https://i.imgur.com/UTtd5bG.jpeg)  
+![v4wire](../imgs/leds/UTtd5bG.jpeg)  
 
 This distinction is crutial in assembling a kit as the wires need to go in a specific orientation outlined in the assembly picture which shows the pins without wires as dashes - - -.
 
 ## Wiring up V4 mini
 
 Start by pluggin in the long wires to the main board like shown.
 
-![notpluggedr](https://i.imgur.com/DNpVzY3.jpeg)  
-![pluggedinr](https://i.imgur.com/4VWqUiZ.jpeg)
+![notpluggedr](../imgs/leds/DNpVzY3.jpeg)  
+![pluggedinr](../imgs/leds/4VWqUiZ.jpeg)
 
 
 Then connect the wires to leds in the sequence:
@@ -48,11 +48,11 @@ Then connect the wires to leds in the sequence:
 
 You need to **pay very close attention** to the **orientation** of the wires so that the missing wire is facing the correct way. The following image shows a kit fully assembled:
 
-![v4minifull](https://imgur.com/zdj9WUu.png)
+![v4minifull](../imgs/leds/zdj9WUu.png)
 
 Here is an example of the right eye's LED strand.  
 
-![v4minireye](https://i.imgur.com/Bi6Og87.jpeg)  
+![v4minireye](../imgs/leds/Bi6Og87.jpeg)  
 
 # How to assemble V4 Lite LED kit:  
 
@@ -76,19 +76,19 @@ First, decide if you want dual eye or single eye operation and pick the appropia
 **__Single Eye:__**   
 Use the 130ohm resistor marked with Black, Black, and Gold middle rings:  
 
-![v4litesingleeye](https://i.imgur.com/dCNMQaZ.jpeg)  
+![v4litesingleeye](../imgs/leds/dCNMQaZ.jpeg)  
 
 
 **__Dual Eye:__**  
 Use the 65ohm resistor marked with Yellow, White and Gold middle rings:  
 
-![v4litedualeye](https://i.imgur.com/vuhsckU.jpeg)  
+![v4litedualeye](../imgs/leds/vuhsckU.jpeg)  
 
 Now, solder the resistor on the board (any orientation), and then the black 3 pin voltage regulator (orientation matters, solder on the side with the white outline and have it fit in the outline's shape)  
 
-![v4litemainboardassem](https://i.imgur.com/s1eqJiE.jpeg)  
+![v4litemainboardassem](../imgs/leds/s1eqJiE.jpeg)  
 
 
 Now, wire up the LEDs like shown.  
 
-![v4litefullassmb](https://i.imgur.com/l57tEmr.png)  
+![v4litefullassmb](../imgs/leds/l57tEmr.png)  

vitepress/docs/src/pages/misc/jlc3dp.md

@@ -6,10 +6,10 @@ https://jlc3dp.com/3d-printing-quote
 ### Upload your STL files with the following print settings
 Do note that if you are printing for a example, a lens mount, you may need to mirror it in blender, or any slicer, to get both a left and right STL and upload them separate. Do not upload them combined
 
-![UploadJLC](https://i.imgur.com/NFKoPAA.png)
+![UploadJLC](../imgs/prints/NFKoPAA.png)
 
 ### Choose a cheaper shipping option, for me this is global standard direct line
 
-![Shipping](https://i.imgur.com/ck27eaH.png)
+![Shipping](../imgs/prints/ck27eaH.png)
 
-In the likely event you get an [email or alert](https://i.imgur.com/t2QmpBY.png) from JLC asking for consent to print as the STL has thin walls, you can agree to the print without worry. 
+In the likely event you get an [email or alert](../imgs/prints/t2QmpBY.png) from JLC asking for consent to print as the STL has thin walls, you can agree to the print without worry.